In Mexico, tortilla size varies depending on region, intended use, and method of production.
By method of production:
- Handmade tortillas are typically larger, with a diameter starting at about 16 cm. They have a more irregular shape and are the thickest.
- Machine‑pressed tortillas (made with a tortilladora in restaurants) follow standardized sizes:
- Taquera: Small tortillas about 9 cm in diameter, ideal for tacos
- Regular: Medium size of about 14 cm, suitable for many uses
- Taquera: Small tortillas about 9 cm in diameter, ideal for tacos
By intended use:
- Small tortillas (taqueras): Perfect for tacos and small bites, used in most taquerías, specially for “Al Pastor” Tacos and other meat delicacies like “Suadero”, “Tripa” or “Lengua”.
- Medium tortillas: Ideal for quesadillas, enchiladas, panuchos, and everyday meals
- Large tortillas: Used for special dishes such as quesadillas and flautas (large tortillas filled traditionally with meat or potato and deep fried) or as tlayudas (a special large and crispy tortilla variety from Oaxaca)
Each size has its own character and purpose in Mexican cuisine. Choosing the right tortilla size is crucial for the authenticity of a dish.
Production methods: from hand to machine
Tortilla production in Mexico ranges from fully artisanal traditions to industrial manufacturing.
Handwork without tools
In many rural areas of Mexico and traditional restaurants, women still make tortillas entirely by hand, without presses or machines. With practiced movements they shape the masa between their palms into perfect circles, a skill that has been passed on over generations. This method takes years to master and is an important part of Mexico’s cultural heritage.
The tortilla press (tortilladora)
For home kitchens and restaurants, a manual tortilla press is often used. It shapes a ball of masa into a flat, round disc, which is then traditionally baked on a comal (hot iron or clay griddle).
The tortilla‑forming machine (máquina tortilladora)
In larger restaurants and tortillerías (specialized tortilla shops), semi‑automatic tortilla machines are often used. It is important to understand that these machines only form the tortillas, not bake them. They produce uniform, round discs of dough that still need to be baked on a comal.
The fully automatic tortilla oven (horno para tortillas)
Industrial production uses specialized tortilla lines that can make thousands of tortillas per hour. The dough is fed in, formed, baked, and finished tortillas come out at the other end.
Interestingly, the first commercial tortilla machines were developed in Mexico. Even today, most specialized traditional tortilla equipment is made in Mexico or by companies founded by Mexican entrepreneurs in the USA, especially in Texas and California, although there are now international manufacturers in other countries as well.
Masa harina: between tradition and globalization
A major development in tortilla history is the introduction of masa harina – dried, powdered nixtamal masa. This product makes it possible to prepare tortilla dough quickly and easily by simply adding water.
Advantages of masa harina:
- Global availability: Makes corn tortilla production possible in regions where traditional nixtamal is hard to produce
- Practical convenience: Long shelf life, easy handling, consistent quality
- Cultural spread: Has contributed to the global dissemination of Mexican cooking techniques
The controversy:
Market leader MASECA and some other large manufacturers face criticism for various reasons:
- GMO issue: A major point of criticism is the use of genetically modified corn, which is especially sensitive in Mexico as the country of origin of corn diversity
- Differences in flavor: Freshly prepared nixtamal offers a clearly richer, more complex flavor
- Cultural aspects: Concern about the loss of traditional knowledge and skills
Quality alternatives:
There are now numerous producers that offer organic, GMO‑free masa harina. Some smaller companies rely on more traditional production methods and use old, traditional corn varieties, helping to preserve genetic diversity.
This development reflects the broader tension between tradition and modernization, between artisanal quality and practical availability. Despite all the controversy, masa harina has made an important contribution to the global spread of this Mexican culinary technique.
In part 3, the focus shifts to nixtamal tortillas in other countries and the worldwide spread of this Mexican tradition.
